
Shot by a City Insiders curator.
Montrose is a neighbourhood gem in Leith that feels like stepping into a calm, monastic sanctuary after a bustling day in the city. Set in a late 19th-century former inn, this two-level spot balances a casual wine bar downstairs with a softly lit, linen-draped dining room upstairs where you'll find ingredient-led dishes that celebrate local produce. The kitchen, helmed by James Murray (who also runs the nearby Michelin-starred Timberyard), delivers a set menu that's both thoughtful and generous—think whipped butter with pickled radishes, cured trout with spruce tips, and a dessert that's basically a love letter to sugar.
A Calm, Ingredient-Led Sanctuary in Leith
Montrose feels like a secret that locals are eager to keep. You walk in and immediately notice the contrast between the stripped-back wine bar downstairs and the upstairs dining room, where thick layers of washed linen on the walls, candles, and incense create a surprisingly serene atmosphere. The food is where the magic happens—this isn't just good food, it's food with intention. The set menu (four courses, with an option for a fifth) is perfectly paced, starting with playful bites like whipped butter and dinky crab tartlets before moving to more substantial plates. The cured trout with Amalfi lemon and spruce tips is a standout, as is the chicken with sherry sauce and kale that somehow doesn't sound dull at all. And that dessert? A cherry blossom baked Alaska with torched meringue that's basically a celebration of everything sweet and sticky. It's the kind of place where you leave feeling satisfied but also inspired to cook something similar at home.
The wine list deserves its own mention—it's extensive and focused on natural and biodynamic wines from small European growers, which pairs beautifully with the food. Service is friendly and knowledgeable without being pretentious, and the staff clearly care about what they're serving. It's not cheap (expect £50-£70 per person), but for the quality and thoughtfulness, it's worth every penny. Book ahead, especially for dinner, though there's usually some walk-in space if you're flexible.