One of Madrid's oldest taverns (dating to 1856), Viva Madrid was reborn in 2018 under Argentine cocktail maestro Diego Cabrera as a "taberna inusual" — part historic bar, part serious cocktail operation. The azulejo facade with its Cibeles mural still stands, but inside you'll find one of the city's best aperitivo traditions revived with creative cocktails and neo-traditional tapas that riff on classic Madrid flavors with global ingredients.
Madrid's oldest tavern (1856) reborn by cocktail legend Diego Cabrera — historic azulejo facade, serious drinks, and neo-castizo tapas in the Barrio de las Letras.
Go early on weekends — the bar fills up fast and standing at the counter is the only option when it's packed. Open Wed-Sun only.
A 1856 Tavern Reborn as a Cocktail Destination
If you want to understand Madrid's bar culture in one stop, Viva Madrid is a pretty good place to start. This tavern has been pouring drinks since 1856 — the original azulejo facade with its Cibeles mural is still intact — but it was Argentine bartender Diego Cabrera (of Salmón Gurú fame) who gave it new life in 2018, turning it into what he calls a "taberna inusual." The concept is simple but smart: keep the old-tavern soul, but elevate everything behind the bar. You can still grab a vermouth and a tapa standing at the counter like a proper madrileño, but the cocktails are genuinely excellent — think classic preparations done with precision and house-made ingredients, averaging around €10-11 a drink.
The food side shouldn't be overlooked either. The kitchen does what they call "neo-castizo" tapas — traditional Madrid dishes reimagined with ingredients from other cultures that have become part of the city's fabric. Reviewers rave about the cocido madrileño and the slow-braised Iberian pork cheek (carrillera ibérica), and the daily-changing midday menu is built around whatever's best at the market that day. It's the kind of place where you come for one drink and end up staying for three.
The vibe is exactly what you'd hope for in the Barrio de las Letras: lively, authentic, and full of character. Google reviewers consistently call it "un lieu très agréable" with a "véritable ambiance espagnole," and Italian visitors describe it as the perfect spot for a cocktail and a chat with friends. It gets busy — especially on weekends — so show up early or be prepared to stand at the bar, which honestly is the best way to experience it anyway. Open Wednesday through Sunday.