When Milanese master baker Alfredo Sironi — the legend behind Markthalle Neun's sourdough loaves — turns his hand to pizza, the result is a thin-crust pie made with 80% spelt flour that hits a sweet spot between chewy and crackle. The bakery-pizzeria combo on Goltzstraße is a Winterfeldtkiez favorite, though the service can be as rough as the dough is refined. Go for the pizza, tolerate the rest.
Milanese baker Alfredo Sironi's 80% spelt flour pizza hits a chewy-crispy sweet spot that Berlin's pizza crowd keeps coming back for.
Go on a weekday evening to avoid weekend crowds and long waits — and remember it's card payment only, no cash accepted.
Spelt-flour pizza from a Milanese bread legend
Sironi is what happens when a serious Milanese baker decides pizza deserves the same respect as his sourdough. Alfredo Sironi made his name with the legendary loaves at Markthalle Neun, and in 2020 he opened this snug pizzeria right next to his bakery on Goltzstraße. The pies here are made with 80% spelt flour, which gives the thin crust a nutty, almost malty character that hits a sweet spot between chewy and crackly — not quite Roman, not quite Neapolitan, entirely its own thing.
The menu is tight and seasonal. The 4 formaggi with tomato sauce and a drizzle of honey is a standout, and there's always a solid vegan option. Prices hover around 20-30€ per person, which is fair for the quality. They also do excellent focaccia and ciabatta from the bakery side if you want to start with something lighter. Gambero Rosso has taken notice, and the place has been featured in Tip Berlin and Meike Peters' "Eat in my kitchen."
The catch? Service can be genuinely rough. Multiple reviewers mention the owner struggling to manage the dining room, and things can get chaotic when it's busy. Go for the pizza, not the hospitality. Card only, no cash. Weekday evenings are your best bet — weekends get packed and the wait can test your patience.