The Hemingford Arms — "The Hemmy" to locals — is the kind of backstreet boozer that makes you fall for London's pub culture. Built in 1855 and smothered in ivy, it's instantly recognisable from the street and effortlessly charming inside, with a cosy, lived-in interior, a proper Thai kitchen, and live music that gives it a genuine community feel rather than a manufactured pub experience. The Guinness is regularly called some of the best in London — high praise that holds up.
An ivy-clad 1855 pub in Barnsbury serving some of London's best Guinness alongside a proper Thai kitchen and live music.
It's a 10-minute walk from Caledonian Road tube — go on a weeknight for a quieter pint and the best shot at a table.
An ivy-clad Barnsbury classic with London's best Guinness
The Hemingford Arms — or "The Hemmy" as the regulars call it — is the kind of pub that makes you understand why people fall in love with London's backstreet boozers. Built in 1855 and smothered in ivy and foliage, it's instantly recognisable from the outside and effortlessly charming within. You'll find a cosy, eclectic interior with the kind of lived-in character that can't be manufactured, plus a Thai kitchen that's been quietly serving some of the best pub Thai food in Islington for years.
The beer selection is genuinely excellent — reviewers consistently praise the Guinness as among the best in London, and the cask ales are well kept. There's live music on select nights, which gives the place a proper community feel rather than a manufactured "pub experience." It gets busy, especially on weekends, but the atmosphere stays warm and welcoming rather than frantic.
If you're coming from central London, it's a ten-minute walk from Caledonian Road tube — and worth every step. This is a neighbourhood pub first and a destination second, which is exactly why it's so good. Go for a pint, stay for the Thai, and don't be surprised if you end up closing the place down.