
A Madrid institution since 1961, Criado is the kind of old-school marisquería where the waiters have been there for decades and the seafood arrives daily from Galicia. Founded by Gerardo Fernández Criado — a fishmonger turned restaurateur from Astorga with Galician roots — it's now run by his son Alfredo, who keeps the quality bar exactly where his father set it. Skip the trendy spots; this is where you come for percebes, merluza de pincho, and a dining room full of history.
A 1961 Madrid institution where the waiters have decades of tenure and the Galician seafood — percebes, merluza de pincho, chipirones en su tinta — is simply the best in the city.
Start at the bar on the López de Hoyos entrance for a beer and tapas while you wait for your table — it's the classic Criado experience and the bar is always well-stocked with fresh seafood.
Six decades of Galician seafood, done right
If you want to understand why Madrid's seafood scene is no joke despite being 300km from the coast, Criado is your classroom. This place has been serving top-tier Galician seafood since 1961, when Gerardo Fernández Criado — a former fishmonger with family ties to Galicia — opened shop and never compromised on quality. His son Alfredo runs it now, and the transition is seamless: the product is still impeccable, the service still old-school, and the dining rooms still lined with photos of satisfied famous faces.
The menu is a seafood lover's dream. Start with the raw stuff — oysters, percebes (goose barnacles), or a plate of clams — and let the staff guide you. These waiters have been here for decades and they know exactly what's best today. For mains, the merluza de pincho (line-caught hake) is the house signature, prepared multiple ways. The chipirones en su tinta (baby squid in ink) are a must, and the cocochas (cod cheeks) done a la romana or in salsa verde are outstanding. If someone in your group isn't into fish, the lomo de buey a la parrilla with pimientos de Padrón is a solid fallback.
The space has two entrances — the original on López de Hoyos leading to a well-stocked bar where you can tapear while waiting, and a newer one on San Nazario. The dining area is an L-shaped layout of three rooms separated by wooden screens, giving it a intimate, clubby feel. It's not cheap, but you're paying for some of the best seafood in Madrid, served in a place that has earned every bit of its reputation over six decades. Go for lunch on a weekday if you can — the room has a wonderful buzz without being overwhelming.