Baccalà is a neighbourhood Italian seafood and wine bar on Bermondsey Street that does one thing and does it exceptionally well: salt cod. Named after the Italian word for dried, salted cod, this place turns a humble ingredient into something worth crossing the river for. The team is warm, the setting is intimate, and the wine list is clearly chosen by someone who cares.
A neighbourhood Italian on Bermondsey Street built entirely around salt cod — creamy mantecato, crispy fritto, and a wine list that actually cares.
Book ahead for dinner — the dining room is small and fills up, especially on weekends. For a quieter experience, go for lunch between 12 and 5pm Tuesday through Saturday.
Salt cod elevated to an art form on Bermondsey Street
If you're going to build an entire restaurant around one ingredient, salt cod is a bold but brilliant choice — and Baccalà pulls it off. The namesake baccalà mantecato (whipped salted cod with polenta crisps and puntarelle salad) is the thing to order first; it's creamy, salty, and moreish in a way that makes you understand why Venetians have been eating it for centuries. The baccalà fritto — fried salted cod with sautéed escarole and yellow datterino tomatoes — is the heartier counterpart, and both pair beautifully with the well-chosen Italian wine list.
The room itself is small and stylish without trying too hard, and the team has that warm, family-like energy that makes you want to settle in for the evening. Reviewers consistently praise the staff, and it shows — this is the kind of place where they remember your wine preference if you come back. It's open Tuesday through Saturday, with a lunch service running from noon until 5pm that's quieter and ideal if you want the place more to yourself.
It's not cheap — this is Bermondsey Street, after all — but the quality of the cooking and the thought behind the wine list make it feel worth it. Come for a date night or a long lunch with someone who appreciates good food and doesn't mind a menu that changes with the seasons. Skip it if you're looking for pizza or red-sauce Italian; this is something more specific and more interesting.